Catching Up - WiFi at last

Monday May 19:

There is something special about really being in the middle of nowhere. And you know that you have finally reached the middle of nowhere when you are beyond the reach of cell phones and WiFi! 

So, it has been several days since I posted to the blog.  On Monday we left Desolation Sound at 5 am to take the "back route" and "run the rapids".  Our timing was perfect.  We were positioned at Yuculta Rapids 10 minutes before the tide turned to ebb and began the transit.  Next was Gillard Passage and beyond that Dent Rapids which we transited at SLACK!  We continued on through Whirlpool Rapids and found good anchorage in Forward Harbor.  We were certainly glad to have Larry's expertise to guide us through this leg of the trip.  On the way home, we will be on our own.

We put the new water maker into service today and made GREAT water.   It tastes great and made for a perfect shower.  It is nice to be in control of our water supply and water quality.  The many hours Barrie put into installing the set paid off handsomely!  Even did a load of wash.  All the comforts of home!

Tuesday May 20:

Another early departure to take advantage of calm seas in Johnstone Strait.  The coffee was made and the anchor was up by 5 am.  As we were leaving Forward Harbor, we hailed a fishing boat on the radio to get a first hand account of the winds in Johnstone Strait.  Imagine our surprise when the only other boat in sight hailed us back.  It was our friends Mel & Bernice from Whidbey Island who spend the summer fishing in Canada.  They had departed from Whidbey several days ahead of us and we assumed they were already significantly north of us. 

About an hour after entering the Strait the engine alarm went off.  We slowed the boat and tried to determine what had happened so suddenly.  The top of the engine was hot but there we no obvious coolant leaks.  We shut down the engine and added water and the engine happily started again.  Mel was standing by with his fishing skiff to aid us if necessary.  Nice to have friends nearby.  The final diagnosis is a leaking heat exchanger - which we will watch carefully until we reach Anchorage where we can have it repaired.

We were anchored in Lagoon Cove before noon.  Lowered the dinghy and explored the area.  Lagoon Cove was famous for nightly shrimp feed until Bill passed away last year.  We understand that visiting boats occasionally use the resorts shrimp pots and host a shrimp feast in Bill's honor!  Beautiful location and very friendly caretakers.

Wednesday May 21:

Today was a positioning day.  We left Lagoon Cove at our normal starting time of 5 am.  Early mornings are generally when the seas are calmest.  And, it is a very pretty time to travel.  The forecast for Queen Charlotte Sound for the next couple of days is for strong winds and high seas.  Our goal is to reach Blunden Harbor when we can anchor in a sheltered location until the bad weather passes.  Arrived around noon after an uneventful passage.

Thursday May 22:

Barrie and Larry spent the morning tinkering with projects.  They worked on the GenSet and analyzed the loads from the various systems on the boat.  We now know that you cannot run the water maker at the same time as the hot water heater - or you will blow a fuse.  I made blueberry scones to reward their hard work.  Plenty of time to read and to enjoy the scenery.

Friday May 23:

Another layover day at anchor.  Conditions are improving and it looks like we should be able to transit Queen Charlotte Sound on Saturday morning.  More tinkering with projects this morning.  Mel used his fishing skiff to come over the boat and we put together a plan to go to shore in the afternoon and explore the sight of the old First Nations Village.  Mel came back a couple hours later and picked us up for the short trip to shore.  We were beachcombing for "trade beads" (didn't find any) and pottery shards (found lots).  After about 40 minutes a boat with a dozen or so First Nations people came close to shore and asked that we untie an old aluminum boat and push it out the them so then could use it to come to shore.  It was a pretty rickety set-up and Mel offered to bring the folks to shore in his boat. 

The First Nations members had come to the historic site to hold a ceremony and we were invited to witness the event.  It was an amazing and emotional event.  Tommy Anderson, a tribe elder who had lived in that village, spoke to all the witnesses including tribal children, cameramen, and the five of us.  Holding and shaking a raven rattle, and dressed in a button bear clan vest and cedar bark crown, he spoke of growing up in the community and relocation by the government.  He described a simple life, abundant food from the sea, strict parents and giving daily thanks to the creator.  Tribal songs in native tongue accompanied by drummers and dancers completed the ceremony.  Tommy thanked us for being present and we in turn thanked him for allowing to observe the ceremony.

Saturday May 24:

Yet another early start on a promising day.  Weather report signals a good crossing ahead.  The storms have moved on but the effects linger in the form of long westerly swells about a foot in height.  The trip is quite uneventful and the passage gets calmer as the morning wears on.  We see our first cruise ships and are glad to be on our little boat!  We also see our first whale of the trip - most likely a humpback.  He spouted, then sounded showing enormous flukes.  We stopped at picturesque Fury Cove for the night.  White shell beaches. 

Sunday May 25:

You guessed it, another early start.  We pulled up anchor at 5 and began our trip up Fitz Hugh Sound to Shearwater.