Kwatsi Cove to Waddington Cove June 14

Kwatsi Cove has a very small marina (but it certainly looked well-loved) where a number of boats moored last night.  We spent the night on the hook in the cove with 250' of chain.  Because there were no other boats nearby - a stern tie did was not necessary.  The locale is simply stunning with high granite cliffs and waterfalls.  And quiet.  This is a place I would return.

We pulled up anchor and slowly worked our way out of the cove and into Kingcome Inlet.  The steep granite walls and waterfalls continued.  We had read about a First Nations village at the head of the inlet and considered stopping until we read in the guide book that it was best to call ahead to learn if they were accepting visitors.  We made a turn to port into Wakeman Sound.  At the end of the sound, there is a river running through a broad valley -- perfect bear country.  The guidebooks also talk of a Wilderness Lodge on Wakeman Sound.  We follow the shoreline watching for bears but they are not in sight today. 

Our quest for wildlife viewing is fulfilled with a sighting of Pacific White-sided Dolphins.  These fun creatures generally travel in large groups and today they did not disappoint us.  In all directions dolphins fins were breaking the water’s surface.  And then there were the dolphins that rode the wake alongside the boat.  They are so much fun to watch.  Then, Barrie says to me, “What do you think that is?”  In the distance is a large log with three very big bumps.  With binoculars in hand, it is easy to make out three lazy seals.  As we approach – plop, plop, plop!

Exiting Kingcome Sound, we head for nearby Shawl Bay.  This marina is written-up in all the guide books and it seems that many folks think that the facilities have seen better days BUT that the pancake breakfasts and the camaraderie are worth the trip.  As we head into Shawl Bay we try to reach the Marina on 66A but get no response.  As we round the corner, we can see the marina and it looks to be shuttered.  This doesn’t make sense – it has been in the same family for several generations and our most recent guide books are from 2014 (which isn’t ancient history – but it is a good reminder that we may need to have something from the current year on board).  We see a crusty-looking chap entering a crusty-looking boat and hail him on the radio.  He tells us the marina is “closed for renovation.”.  We hope that is the case but it is hard to imagine how someone makes a living from such a small establishment with so few days in the season this far north.  

We consider our options.  There are a number of anchorages nearby but it is still early and we opt to check out Waddington Bay, a favorite of Steppe and Mary Williford.  We can’t argue with the Williford’s that this is a lovely anchorage and the news must be getting around because there are three boats at anchor by the time we arrive at 5:30.  Still there is plenty of room and setting the anchor is easy in the relatively shallow water.  Sea Spirit, one of the boats sharing the anchorage, hails us from their dinghy.  They kindly offered us a photo of Chug that they had taken from their dinghy and printed on their boat!  They are from the Port Townsend area and spend a couple months of each summer cruising this area.

We settle-in for the evening with books and the cat.  We have been out of cell phone range for several days (and no wifi – which we had hoped to find at Shawl Bay) so posting this entry will have to wait.