Following John Muir

 This morning we are headed up-bay to Muir Inlet.  In late 1879 John Muir, his companion and a group of native paddlers set out by canoe from Fort Wrangell.  Muir had heard of ice mountains in the north and wanted to explore.  At the end of his trip, Muir wrote:

“The green waters of the fjord were filled with sun spangles; the fleet of icebergs set forth on their voyages with the upspringing breeze; and on the innumerable mirrors and prisms of these bergs, and on those of the shattered crystal walls of the glaciers, common white light and rainbow light began to burn, while the mountains shone in their frosty jewelry, and loomed again in the thin azure in serene terrestrial majesty.  We turned and sailed away, joining the outgoing bergs, while ‘Gloria in excelsis’ still seemed to be sounding over all the white landscape, and our burning hearts were ready for any fate, feeling that, whatever the future might have in store, the treasures we had gained this glorious morning would enrich our lives forever.”

It is hard to describe the grandeur of Glacier Bay.  In some ways, it looks a lot like home.  Water, mountains, snow .... but everything is bigger and more awe inspiring.  In this place, it becomes all about where you are and not who you are.

Muir Glacier

Wanting to start our trip to the glaciers prepared, we first stopped at the Park’s Guest Dock and fill our water tanks.  (The glacial silt in this area is not conducive to reverse osmosis water making.)  Then with the start of the flood tide we start our trip north through Sitakaday Narrows at speeds approaching 10 knots. 

We pass close by (abiding by park rules!) South Marble Island where a large colony of very noisy sea lions are hauled out on the rocks.  There are several hundred in close proximity.  Just off the island we see a dozen or more Puffins in the water.  Just beyond the island, we come upon perhaps 50 or more sea lions all in a feeding frenzy.  It is an amazing sight to watch them surface and then dive again and again – looking almost like popcorn.  

As we near the top of Muir Inlet on our way to view the glacier, we encounter scattered chunks of ice emanating from Riggs Glacier.  Some we find difficult to spot but we come through unscathed.  Beyond the inlet to Riggs, the ice clears but the fog lowers and visibility is significantly reduced.  We continue with caution and by the time we are approaching the terminus of Muir Glacier the fog lifts and we are able to view the glacier.  This area seems to be a haven for Sea Otters and we see scores of them.  They are quite funny to watch.  Swimming on their backs with their head and feet visible, it can appear that the are waving at you.

We anchored for the night in Wachusetts Inlet with a lovely view of a hanging glacier.  Since we are near a full moon, we are experiencing the full range of tidal action.  While we are at anchor, the tide will rise another 5 feet before plummeting nearly 25 feet.  High tides this week reach as much as 24 feet and low tides will drop as far -4.7 feet.