Little Norway

Petersburg is known as Little Norway and for good cause.  Peter Buschmann, a Norwegian fisherman, founded the town around the turn of the 20^th century.  He determined the north end of Mitkof Island, with glacier ice nearby, would make a good site for a cannery.  There is still a cannery in town, albeit much smaller than it was more than a century ago, a sizable fishing fleet is home-ported in Petersburg, and the US Forest Service is now the largest employer in the area.

Proud Vikings

A Young Viking

It is easy to see why Norwegians followed Peter Buschmann to this remote Alaskan island.  The snow-capped mountains, fjords and glaciers would certainly have reminded them of home.  This is our second year to join the local population in celebration of Norwegian Constitution Day – May 17^th.  It is a four day celebration with music, dance and an opportunity for everyone to wear their their Norwegian sweaters and bunads (the National costume of Norway).  I stopped a woman wearing a beautiful hand-knit sweater and asked from where is Norway did her family come.  She smiled and said that she was Jewish but had lived in Petersburg for more than 20 years and loved participating in the celebration.  She had even hand embroidered a bunad and would be participating in the style show.  We are told that the 4^th of July celebration in Petersburg is even bigger!  That really doesn’t surprise me.  Growing up in the Seattle Norwegian immigrant community of Ballard, I remember my grandparents being proud of their Norwegian heritage but even more proud of being Americans. 

Valkyrie tossing the herring!

Our 4-day adventure began on Thursday with a ranger-led walk through the Muskeg.  Joanie is a wonderful Interpreter and pointed out native plants both large and small.  Barrie and I then walked a one-half mile boardwalk trail over the muskeg to the Sandy Beach and then followed the Hungry Point Trail back into town.  We headed back to the boat for a glass of wine and a light dinner before walking back into town for the annual melodrama presented by the Mitkof Mummers.  The local actors did a great job and the performance included a bit of local humor and a dig or two at neighboring town Wrangell. 

Friday included street vendors and a parade down Nordic Avenue with every fire truck and police vehicle, two Viking ships and dozens of children in Norwegian costume dancing in the street.  Post parade was the annual herring toss (slimy).  Friday night was perhaps Barrie’s favorite event of the weekend.  We joined a couple of hundred folks at the local high school for a Roller Derby game.  The Petersburg Ragnaroks Rollers trounced the Far North Derby from Kenai.  Barrie says it was the Ragnaroks superior blocking but I think the Jammers, Gill WreckHer and Dark Flow RidHer might have had something to do with it!

Gold Medal Winner

Saturday started out early with the Lop the Loop 7K run.  The run heads east from town past the airport, along a lovely bike path to Sandy Beach and then back into town.  With the first few blocks, I found myself pacing with Mary Clemmens, who recently retired from the Forest Service and grew up on Bainbridge Island.  Small world.  We ran the remainder of the race together as her long legs set the pace and I worked to keep up.  She let me cross the finish line a step ahead but as it turned out we were in different classes.  She in the 50-59 year old division and me in the over 60 division (yikes).  The benefit of being “old” is that I took first in my class while Mary took second in hers.  After a shower we headed back into town for a lunch of Beer Battered Halibut Bits at the local Elks Club and a heavenly smorgasbord of open-faced sandwiches and pastries at the Sons of Norway Hall.  With full stomachs and a rainstorm on the way, Barrie and I headed back to the boat.  An hour of so later, we were joined by Dick and Bridget Walsh who live in Petersburg and last year purchased a sister boat.  We had met them last year at the Krog-In in Anacortes and thoroughly enjoyed our afternoon together. 

Petersburg is a beautiful village by the sea surrounded by high snow-capped mountains.  The day we arrived the sun was out and the vistas were simply spectacular.  Petersburg is also a town that on average receives 140 inches of rain each year.  By Saturday afternoon the harbor was socked in with clouds and overnight several inches of rain fell.  It appears the rain is here to stay for at least 24 hours.  Sunday afternoon the Rotary Club is putting on a fish barbeque at Sandy Beach.  When we were there two years ago, we all agreed that it was an epic feast.  I expect that rain doesn’t deter the locals from having fun but I am wondering about walking three miles in the rain for a BBQ.