Hail to the Queen (Charlotte) May 6

Morning in the Broughton's

We have entered one of the most magnificent cruising grounds on the planet.  The Broughton’s are an archipelago of small islands, islets and rocks that have been virtually untouched by time. Remnants of First Nations Villages are still just barely visable.  Settlements are few and simple.  In the early morning we ply through one small passage after another in the company of seagulls but not a single boat in sight.  It would be easy to spend weeks (or a lifetime) exploring the hidden coves and we are told the fishing is fine.  But, we are bound for Alaska and don’t want to tarry on our northbound passage lest we never arrive at our destination.

So, the next few days are all about positioning to cross Queen Charlotte Sound.  We listen closely to the weather.  A high-pressure ridge is offshore and while the sun is shining today, stormy weather is on its way.  The forecast calls for gale force winds in Queen Charlotte Sound with winds as high as 35 mph on Sunday afternoon diminishing on Monday.  Light winds are forecast for Tuesday and Wednesday.  Knowing this, we set our sights for crossing Queen Charlotte on Tuesday after the waters have had the opportunity to settle. 

A perfect day

The forecast for Queen Charlotte Strait is light on Sunday morning rising to South 15 in the afternoon and rain in the evening.  Monday’s forecast has winds as high as 25 in the morning. 

All this adds up to slowly working our way through the Broughton’s today with hopefully a stop at Sullivan Bay where we can pick up a few provisions (we could not bring eggs across the border and I am hoping for Canadian maple syrup to go with the waffles Susannah made for our trip).  We will then continue on to Blunden Harbor at the entrance to Queen Charlotte Strait.  Tomorrow if the weather holds as forecast, we will continue up Queen Charlotte Strait to Allison Harbor or Miles Inlet where we will be sheltered from the storm that is forecast to be raging in Queen Charlotte Sound.  Or perhaps we will stay over in Blunden.  The weather will control our progress for the next few days.

I really enjoy this part of cruising on a slow (7 knot) trawler.  We become part of the environment in which we travel.  We cannot outrun trouble so we get to outsmart it.  Interestingly, I like waiting for the weather to improve (assuming the wait time is just a day or two – but if it is longer – so be it).  I can settle in with a cup of tea, a good book and the cat and be very content.  Since I am seldom still for long at home, my friends wonder about my confinement on a boat.  It is difficult to describe but my mind and body celebrate the relaxed pace.  Worldly worries fall away and our focus turns to more immediate matters.  How hard is the wind blowing and for how long?  Which way is the tide running (an interesting question as the water finds it was past and around islands)?  When is high tide and how does that affect our anchoring?  How much power are we consuming?  What can we do to conserve?

Life aboard Chug means that we are essentially operating a small city?  Our water department is an RO water-maker that converts seawater to the best drinking water I have ever tasted.  The process involving filters and membranes results in water with 30-40 ppm .  According to the book, the acceptable level should not exceed 500 ppm.  Power comes from the engine when we are underway, batteries when we are at anchor and a generator to fill the gap.  Keeping an eye on the level of the batteries is part of the daily routine.  Toilets, a holding tank and a pump-out process make up the sanitary department.  And so it goes.  Barrie has worked on most of these systems over the past five years and has they are in much better shape than when we purchased the boat.  Still plenty of opportunity for things to go wrong, but thankfully they mostly don’t!

Today has been stunningly beautiful and for that I am ever grateful.  In fact the weather is holding so well that we are bound for Allison Harbor tonight.  I am quickly posting while I have phone service which I don't expect to last long.  More when we get to Shearwater early next week.